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A Return to the 80’s in Central America?

Facing into the Dark, Nicaragua under Siege, o/c, 4*" X 48", 1985

Facing into the Dark, Nicaragua under Siege, o/c, 4*" X 48", 1985

I painted these two youngsters on the archipelago of Solentiname in eastern Lake Nicaragua in 1985. They were armed by the Sandinista government, as were many country folk, so they could defend themselves against  the  Contras. The Contras specialized in terrorizing the civilian population They targeted new schools and hospitals built by the revolutionary government for the rural poor, often torturing the teachers and doctors to death. They assassinated a young, idealistic American, who traveled with us for a while, named Ben Linder. His crime: he was constructing small, inexpensive hydroelectric systems to bring electricity to isolated communities.

At the time we were told by President Ronald Reagan that the Contras were ‘the moral equivalent of our Founding Fathers’ and that they alone prevented the  Nicaraguan Sandinista government from invading Texas. Imagine our surprise  on “The Artists’ Tour of Nicaragua ‘84″ when we saw Managua the capitol of this fearsome ‘communist’ state still lying in ruins twelve years after the catastrophic quake of December 1972. We were even more surprised by the fearsome Sandinista army: many troops were barefoot and some even carried WW2 vintage rifles.

Downtown Managua,  o/c, 18" X 24", 1985

Downtown Managua, o/c, 18" X 24", 1985

The Contras were organized and funded by the CIA in Honduras with the tacit consent of our Ambassador John Negroponte.

Fast forward twenty-four years. The constitutional president of Honduras  is seized by the Honduran military in his pajamas and flown to Costa Rica. Curfews and a news blackout are imposed on the country. Many democratic activists are seized by the army. There are rumors of widespread torture and assassination. As many as two hundred thousand Hondurans protest for the return of their president and are fired on by their own troops, but a curious news blackout in the United States muffles these events.

The Obama administration admits that it was informed of the impending coup and advised against it. Hold on a minute. The President of the most powerful nation on earth which maintains a huge military base in this, the third poorest nation in the Americas, which is it’s major trading partner and which bestows millions of dollars in aid, could not halt a coup. Even stranger, after the coup, the Administration allowed the coup leaders to enter the United States to talk with their Republican allies.

Some of these coup leaders directed the Contras in the 8o’s. Hillary Clinton’s close adviser on the situation in Honduras is none other the our ambassador to Honduras in the 80’s, John Negroponte .

Is this the change we voted for? Tell me it isn’t so.

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Completing my ‘Ceago Series’ at the Lavender Harvest

I arrived at Ceago Vinegarden, which is located on the shores of Clear Lake between Nice and Lucerne, a few days before the lavender harvest to paint the crop at its peak. The two acres of plants spread out between the winery and the lake are equally spectacular for their  hue and  their scent. Painting here in the hundred degree heat was like being immersed in a lavender scented sauna. I wondered if this was how the ancient Roman baths felt. Romans used it for treating wounds and for bathing. Its name is said to derive from the Latin word to wash ‘lavare’

Lavender Season at Ceago

Lavender Season at Ceago, oil/canvas, 18" X 24"

( The entire series of these paintings may be viewed on this site in the Ceago Series 2007- 2009 Gallery .)

Viewed up close each plant is like a small 4th of July  rocket-burst: from a silvery-leafed sphere hundreds of thin green stems shoot out bearing a second, concentric, shimmering sphere of lavender hued flowers. The air amid them is abuzz with bees and other insects. I even spotted some small dragonflies searching out insects among the stems.
Several mornings I rose around 5:30 AM to paint the harvest. It was already light at 6 AM as I sketched two of the farm hands working their way towards me. It would be another hour before the sun crested the eastern mountains dramatically illuminating the scene. A jay hopped from trimmed plant to trimmed plant gobbling unsuspecting insects. A field mouse, grown used to me, darted near my feet only running for cover when I looked directly at it. A great blue heron rose from the neighboring field and flew over us towards the lake.

Lavendar Harves, Ceago, oil/canvas, 18" X 24"

Lavendar Harves, Ceago, oil/canvas, 18" X 24"

Jim Fetzer told me, later, that a row of approximately 50 plants produces one and one half quarts of lavender oil. Which means that this field could produce 20 gallons of oil. Later in the day I observed the distillation process. Water is boiled in the spherical bottom of the ‘column still’. (See painting below)

Lavendar Morning, oil/canvas, 18" X 24"

Lavendar Morning, oil/canvas, 18" X 24"

It rises through the central column which has been stuffed with lavender blossoms. The steam extracts the essential oil and carries it through a pipe that descends from the alembic dome and runs in coils down through a cooling container that is filled with water. It emerges at the end of the pipe as oil and and a milky hydrosol.  The oil is floated off and bottled and the hydrosol is collected and sold in spray bottles.

Distillation is a process that was developed by the Alchemists some of whose methods are also incorporated in ‘biodynamic’ farming practiced here at Ceago.

Saturday, June 27th was the day of the Annual Lavendar Distillation Lunch. I was working in the raised corridor above the entrance painting a view through an opening that overlooks the courtyard.

View of the Courtyard, Ceago, oil/canvas, 18" X 24"

View of the Courtyard, Ceago, oil/canvas, 18" X 24"

(This view is the exact opposite direction from the one I painted from up here on my last visit in January. It was reproduced in the blog titled “Painting at Ceago Vinegarden”.)

Standing  above the courtyard I witnessed people’s reactions as they arrived. There were loud “Oohs!” and “Wows!” as they got their first view of the field in full bloom. Many headed right for it. Others paused at the fountain, which splashed seductively in the heat, to take photos of each other. Soon the courtyard was filled with friends and families seated at tables eating the fresh salad, grilled sausages and handmade tortillas.

A photographer, Ron Kees, found me and took some pictures of me at work. He told me that his paintings of Barack Obama had recently been featured in the New York Times.

“Art about, art about art.”  I commented, referring to the fact that he was photographing me making a painting of  Jim Fetzer’s creation.

” Life doesn’t make a lot of sense unless you can create something beautiful to pass on to the next generation.” he responded.

Around sundown I joined the  dinner guests in the back courtyard. The Ceago Estate Lamb Gyros prepared by chef Nick Hiedeman from a lamb Jim had slaughtered on Monday was, hands down, the best lamb I’ve ever tasted and so tender it seemed to melt in my mouth.

A live Salsa band, Orienta,  performed in the main courtyard until late into the evening. I chatted with some of Jim’s childhood friends. We all paused to savour the lavender infused cake with macerated strawberries and lavender blackberry cream.

“Life” someone observed, “doesn’t get much better than this.”

( In early October I will be exhibiting my complete ‘Ceago Series’ at Ceago.

The entire series of these paintings may be viewed on this site in the Ceago Series 2007- 2009 Gallery on this Site.

To receive announcements to this and other exhibitions e-mail me at  anthonyholdsworth@yahoo.com  with “add me to you e-mail list” in the subject line.)

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Mexico en mi corazon: Mexico in my heart

Plaza Don Vasco de Quiroga, Patzcuaro, Michoacan

Plaza Don Vasco de Quiroga, Patzcuaro, Michoacan

Are you a tourist or are you a traveler? Do you already know what you want to experience or would you prefer to be surprised. Most, with only a couple of  weeks vacation, understandably prefer the first option. In Mexico they head for the coastal resorts where they play and lounge at waters edge while they are treated like royalty. What they  see is a facade that Mexico has created to conform to their desires.

There is another Mexico that greets the serious traveler. It is a place of extreme contrasts of dark and light offering expressions of sorrow and joy that pluck at our heart.

Market, Patzcuaro, Michoacan

Market, Patzcuaro, Michoacan

Consider this  Purepecha woman, her skin as  red as the earth, waving flies from her produce. Her black hair falls over a dark rebozo which is shot through with threads of  electric blue. Seated amid a riot of brightly colored fruits and vegetables, her environment has changed much  since the Conquest. There are plastic containers and the glint of chrome on parked trucks. But something of the ancient culture prevails. Her people, the majority as poor as dirt since the beginning of time, continue to practice elaborate ceremonies and to create objects and clothing of great beauty.

The Conversation, Ihautzio, Michoacan

The Conversation, Ihautzio, Michoacan

They are the descendants of a powerful empire the size of Switzerland that was never conquered by the Aztec, but they owe much of the survival of this culture and their traditional crafts to a man known affectionately as ‘Tata Vasco’. At age sixty Don Vasco de Quiroga was dispatched by the King of Spain to minister to the survivors of the brutal Conquistador Nuño Beltran de Guzman.

For thirty years Don Vasco, a Franciscan and  a Utopian, supervised the building of schools and hospitals, he re-established tribal councils and encouraged a demoralized people to integrate their traditional crafts into the emerging Spanish economy. Today the indigenous people of Michoacan are deemed the most skilled craftspeople in Mexico. They are also, arguably, the most prosperous.

Above Lake Patzcuaro, Michoacan

Above Lake Patzcuaro, Michoacan

Climbing a rocky trail on the edge of an escarpment we are gingerly walking  the remnants of a processional causeway that linked the town of Ihautzio with pyramids that rise above the lake. Directly below us a man and his son are maintaining a steep field of maize. Beyond them, past stands of prickly pear and Joshua trees, a patchwork of fields declines towards the placid lake. Roosters crow and and a bull bellows from the direction of our lodgings in Rancho Santiago.  Dark clouds brush the tops  of distant peaks that encircle the lake. Electric bolts light the clouds and thunder rolls towards us across the placid waters. It’s easy, in this context to sense the presence of the ancient gods.

Forty miles beyond these peaks rises the active volcano Paricutin. It’s birth in 1943 , in a farmer’s cornfield, makes it the youngest volcano in the America’s. The mother of our host Arminda Flores recalled the volcanic ash raining, intermittently, down on  Ihautzio during her childhood. On our last visit to the nearby city of Guanajuato we visited the childhood home of  Diego Rivera This home, which is now a museum of his early work, displays a series of drawings  he created after witnessing the eruption  of Paricutin.

Morning, El Jardin, Guanajauto

Morning, El Jardin, Guanajauto

I will be leading a painting group to Guanajuato and Lake Patzcuaro for two weeks in early January 2010. For further information about this trip visit the “Classes” section of this website. Scroll down until you reach ‘Outdoor Painting Classes around Lake Patzcuaro in Michoacan Mexico’. There is also a short video about our last trip.

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Uptown Unveiled: The Fox and Paramount Theaters, Oakland, June 18

I’ve painted them on several occasions. Now my guest blogger, Annalee Allen, will fill you in on a celebration which will showcase two of Oakland’s premier movie palaces:

Annalee Allen

The upcoming Uptown Unveiled street party on June 18th presents an opportunity to showcase both of Oakland’s movie palace gems – the Paramount Theatre on Broadway, and the newly restored Fox Oakland Theater on Telegraph Avenue. The lobbies of both theaters will be open for viewing, and guides with the Oakland Tours Program will be leading walks from one venue to the other throughout the evening.

atbusstopsm1

Anthony Holdsworth’s portraits of both theaters, seen altogether on this site, capture the sense of expectation and excitement patrons must have felt eight decades ago when both theaters, with capacities to seat 3000-plus people, offered a few hours of escape into the wide world of entertainment. A check of the history files reveals that several other theaters were operating in downtown during that time – the twenties and thirties, but the opening of the Fox in 1928, and the Paramount in 1931 represented a new level of architectural opulence and patron accommodation. Purchasing a ticket for 44 cents (55 cents for the loge level) meant transport to worlds and time periods far far away, files say.
Over the years, at the Fox, well-known vaudevillians and stars like Ginger Rogers, Bing Crosby, Frank Sinatra and the Jimmy Dorsey Band took the stage during movie intermissions. During the year long construction period for the Paramount, which occurred as the Great Depression was deepening, dozens of subcontractors employed hundreds of steelworkers, plumbers, carpenters and artisans to work on the mammoth structure. On opening day the Paramount was reported to be the largest movie house on the West Coast.
The Paramount

The Paramount

While the style of the Fox suggests a “Brahamanian Temple of Northern India,” with a tower dome encrusted with colored tiles, the Paramount, designed by noted San Francisco architect Timothy Pflueger, is a towering tribute to the Jazz Age and Moderne styled Art Deco. It too features highly unusual glazed mosaic tile panels, flanking the neon blade sign, that depict stylized male and female puppet masters crowned with stars, dangling golden strings with performing arts figures.
How exciting it must have been to see those neon letters on the theaters’ towering signs, glowing nightly, drawing folks downtown to shows, dining, and dancing.
According to the files, the acquisition and restoration of the Paramount Theatre by the Oakland Symphony Association in the early 1970’s, was seen as the start of a major trend around the country to take aging movie palaces and convert them in to performing arts centers. A modest $4 million, funds contributed by a few key locally prominent civic minded leaders, and matched by energetic community volunteers who mounted a one dollar per person fundraising campaign, was what it took back in 1973, to reopen the Paramount Theatre. The rescue of the Fox took much longer and was far more complicated. That remarkable story will be retold on June 18th by the volunteer guides of the Oakland Tours20Program at the Uptown Unveiled street party. In addition, the Uptown tour will be repeated monthly through the summer months, the dates and times are posted on the web at Oaklandnet.com/walkingtours.
The Fox during Restoration

The Fox during Restoration

We owe a debt of gratitude to those who refused to give up on the idea that Oakland could have not one but two major downtown landmark venues, fully restored and open for all to enjoy. For more on uptown’s renaissance check out www.MeetDowntownOak.com.
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East Bay Open Studios 2009

Saturdays and Sundays
June 6 & 7, 13 & 14, 2009

11AM – 6PM

351 Lewis St Oakland, CA 94110

Google Map

The East Bay hosts one of the highest per capita concentrations of visual artists in the United States. You’ve probably never heard of most of them. Many are not represented by local galleries.

Pro Arts, oil on canvas, 18" X 24", 2004
Pro Arts, oil on canvas, 18″ X 24″, 2004

If you are interested in an overview of the East Bay visual arts, I encourage you to participate in an event that throws the doors wide open. More than four hundred studios will welcome the general public the first two weekends in June. This visual smorgasbord is keenly anticipated by art lovers, as well as collectors and gallery owners.

Because of the number of artists involved I recommend visiting Pro Arts Gallery in Jack London Square where each participating artist shows a sample of his or her work. With the catalog in hand  you can plan your voyage of discovery.

Nowadays you can also take a virtual visit. Check out the Online Gallery.

East Bay Open Studios is a excellent opportunity to discover emerging artists at reasonable prices. While I don’t advise buying art primarily as an investment, there is no doubt that, these days, reasonably priced work by living artists has a greater potential to appreciate in value than most stocks and bonds. It’s also much more enjoyable to look at!

O'Brien Theile painting in the garden of Rancho Santiago, near Patzcuaro, Michoacan, Mexico

O'Brien Thiele painting in the garden of Casa Santiago, near Patzcuaro, Michoacan, Mexico

Four artists, who have attended my painting workshops in Oakland, Mexico or Italy, are taking part in Open Studios. They are  O’Brien Theile and Ron Weil both in Berkeley,  Marvin Dalander in Alameda. And Lorrie Fink in Oakland.

I’ve participated  in East Bay Open Studios every year since it’s inception in the early 80’s.  Pro Arts is an artist membership organization which has acted as an entry point into the art world for emerging talent. It hosts a number of exhibitions each year. My exhibition with Pro Arts in 1986 garnered a full page review (by Charles Shere and Susan Stern) in the Oakland Tribune, as well as a gallery connection. Sales from this show enabled me to phase out my landscape gardening business and devote myself full time to painting.

Autumn at the Farmers' Market, oil on canvas, 18" X 24", 2008

Autumn at the Farmers' Market, oil on canvas, 18" X 24", 2008

This year I am showcasing my painting of the San Francisco Chronicle (Storm Clouds over the Chronicle) and the Farmer’s Market painting that was featured in an article by Brenda Payton in the San Francisco Chronicle. I will  be showing other examples of my Farmers’ Market Series and Urban Garden Series as well as new urban landscapes.

You are welcome to explore my racks in the mezzanine where I store about a hundred paintings, and to take part in lively conversation with other guests over wine, cheese and cappuccinos.

I look forward to seeing you.

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The Urban Garden

The Three Sisters July-Sept, oil on canvas, each painting 36" X 24", 2008

'The Three Sisters', July-Sept, oil on canvas, each painting 36" X 24", 2008

Last Wednesday while I was considering writing this blog I turned to a column by Jon Carroll, in the Chronicle. He began “Food is important. We cook it, we eat it, we talk about it. It sustains us. It is also politically important.” He went on to cite the work of Alice Waters and the Michael Pollan and to opine that perhaps we are sometimes guilty of being faddish and snobbish here in “this center of good food and good food opinions”. But what really bothered him, in this deepening recession, was the realization of just how expensive it is to eat good food.

He promised “more on Thursday”, and I thought “Jon you’re going to tout urban gardens!” But no. He was not about to tear out his flowers or frighten his cats by introducing chickens. Instead he’s frequenting inexpensive, local ethnic restaurants.

When we eat out we usually choose inexpensive ethnic restaurants. But mostly we eat at home. Alice Waters maintains that 85% of good cooking is good ingredients. We have two excellent sources of good ingredients. The Farmers’ Markets and our own urban garden.

All these paintings were created in our garden. You may enlarge the images by clicking on them.

garden1

Only the corner of our garden which has a stream, pond and rock garden is landscaped. The rest is a motley collection of vegetable beds. Lettuce, basil, carrots, sugar snap peas and other vegetables rotate through these beds. The asparagus, raspberries, artichokes, rhubarb and lemons are perennial. Everything flourishes on layers of household compost mixed with my ‘house blend’ of cocoa hulls, coffee grounds and ash.

As well as providing maybe thirty percent of our vegetables the garden has become my outdoor studio. I’ve started a series of time lapse paintings of the growing plants. “The Three Sisters” which is posted at the top of this blog is an example. The “Three Sisters” are the “Las Tres Hermanas” of pre-Columbian agriculture. Corn, beans and squash which were grown together, and together were the foundation of the diet .

The pond is the primary source of excitement in the garden.

garden2

It attracts an astonishing variety of creatures. There are the regulars: morning doves, mocking birds and jays (who eat my snails), and a variety of migrating birds. One day a red-shouldered hawk flew over my shoulder as I was bent over the pond. He settled on the rock garden twelve feet away and gazed at me.

A Grey Heron passes by occasionally. After one visit two of my three frogs were missing. Only this one remained.

garden3

The other day my son Mario and I were observing a humming bird skittering over the pond’s surface catching insects. Our local hunter, the black cat Pilar, was also interested and set himself in ambush. The humming bird passed within inches of the frog. To our astonishment the frog sprang at the hummingbird jaws agape. He barely missed him. Pilar dashed towards the source of commotion drawing the attention of a jay. This jay makes it his business to constantly harass Pilar, and proceeded to drive him out of our yard.

Mario and I were left to speculate whether the frog mistook the humming bird for a large insect. How would he have ingested this whirring ball of beak, feathers and claws? Or was he simply chasing the bird away from ‘his’ turf?

garden4

Our garden produces 30% of our produce most of the year. It’s the best tasting food on our table. I’ve always thought that the taste of unadulterated food is a good indication of it’s nutritional value. At the farmer’s market we buy organic food if it’s reasonably priced. We also purchase from farmers who claim not to use chemicals if the flavor of their food supports their claims. Many small farmers who have no use for pesticides and chemical fertilizers prefer to avoid the cost and hassle of certification. The beauty of obtaining our food from these two sources is that the, nearly, expense free garden vegetables more than offset the cost of organic purchases.

Study after study indicates that organically grown food is 20% or 30 % more nutritious than industrial food as well as being free of poisonous residues. Which justifies paying more for it. This is admittedly a hard sell among impoverished minorities. Many label my point of view ‘elitist.’

Not the young, urban pioneers around my studio in West Oakland who are establishing market gardens in abandoned lots and unused yards and selling the vegetables cheaply around the neighborhood.

Urban gardens are not only a good, healthy response to the current recession but anyone who works regularly in the soil will tell you it’s a ‘grounding’ experience.

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Farmers Markets: yesterday and today

(Read Brenda Payton’s on the street commentary in the Sunday Insight Section of the SF Chronicle.)

Old Oakland Market - April, 24"X35", oil/canvas, Anthony Holdsworth 2009

Old Oakland Market - April, 24"x 35", oil/canvas, Anthony Holdsworth, 2009

In these recessionary times Farmers’ Markets appear to be thriving. This is reassuring. Many of us look forward to their arrival in our neighborhood as a high point in the week. The sights, smells and flavors of the countryside spilling out onto concrete and asphalt. The opportunity to support small, family farmers, to pick up gardening tips. To enjoy the food stands and musicians. It’s  hard to imagine a time before most of these markets existed. It wasn’t so long ago.

Open air Market, Florence Italy 1976, Pen and Ink

Open air Market, Florence, Italy, pen and ink on paper.

My first encounter with an outdoor farmers’ market was in Florence, Italy in 1966. In those days this market occupied the piazza behind the Mercato Centrale. The local farmers had large handcarts with colorful awnings that could be unfurled on sunny days. It was a picturesque and animated scene overlooked by the pale yellow palazzi with their green shutters. The  Duomo floated in the distance.

While Florentines haggled with the farmers, Gypsy families worked the tourists or stole fruit. The merchants would intermittently chase the Gypsies or hurl rotten fruit after them.

(Remember you can click on all these images to enlarge them.)

Gypsy mother and child & Butcher in the covered Mercato Centrale, Pen and ink

Gypsy mother and children & Butcher inside the Mercato Centrale, pen and ink on paper

When I tasted the fruit I understood why they were stealing it. The peaches, especially, were a revelation and made me wonder what American farmers were doing wrong.

I returned to Berkeley, California in 1970. The counter culture rebellion against industrial agriculture was gaining momentum. Our block joined ‘The Food Conspiracy’. Many Saturday mornings I would drive my ‘54 F-100 truck to the Alemany Farmer’s Market in San Francisco to pick up the week’s orders for more than a dozen households. Before noon, friends and neighbors would gather  in our backyard to collect their food.

The Food Conspiracy, oil/canvas 7ft X 9ft, 1973

The Food Conspiracy, oil/canvas 7ft X 9ft, 1973

In the mid seventies an open air market rolled up a block from my home in North Oakland. It stopped on a parking lot on Telegraph Avenue just south of Alcatraz.  I would set my up  easel there almost every week. The market consisted of two or three red trucks with white wooden panels. The panels swung up to form a wooden awning revealing shelves filled with colorful fruit and vegetables.

John's Market, oil on canvas, 1976

John's Market, oil on canvas, 1976

I’d been painting on and off near Ratto’s in Old Oakland for a decade. The neighborhood was emerging from skid row, when in 1997 ‘Urban Village’ opened the Old Oakland Farmer’s Market.

My mural sized painting of the market in those days hangs permanently in the foyer of Holy Names University’s Performing Arts Center. It was composed from dozens of small sketches made at the market over several months.

(Remember you can click on all these images to enlarge them.)

Market on 9th St - July, 10.5ft  X 11.5ft, oil canvas, 1997, Oakland

Market on 9th St - July, 10.5ft X 11.5ft, oil canvas, 1997, Oakland

Some of the people in the painting from far left are Richard and Byron Fong son and grandson of the famous Oakland Chinese herbalist Fong Wan. Richard died a few years ago.  Byron Fong continues the family trade as an herbalist and acupuncturist with an office on Grand Avenue opposite Children’s Fairyland. The next two people are Martin Durante and his daughter Elena owners of Ratto’s Delicatessen. Talking to them is Sandro Rossi founder of Caffe 817.

This last painting is an up to the moment rendition of the market. Completed May 1st of this year.

'Old Oakland Market - April', oil on canvas,  24" X 35", 2009

'Old Oakland Market - April', oil on canvas, 24" X 35", 2009

If you are in Oakland on a Friday morning come on down to Ninth and Washington Streets. Enjoy the market. Sip the best cappucino in town at Caffe 817 and enjoy organic, Italian food while you consider what you need to buy at Ratto’s Delicatessen next door. For a more complete preview of what you will find watch my five minute video titled “Celebrating Caffe 817“.

(Read Brenda Payton’s on the street commentary about the creation of this painting in the Sunday Insight Section of the SF Chronicle.)

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News in the News Pt 2: The Once and Future Chronicle

For years I’d been considering painting the San Francisco Chronicle building at 5th and Mission. I ‘d hesitated because the location seemed so difficult. When the Hearst Corporation announced it was shutting down the Seattle Intelligencer and eying the San Francisco Chronicle for closure, I hurriedly set up my easel on what Leah Garchik would describe as a “boomerang shaped traffic island”.

This was one of the busiest sites at which I’ve worked. It was also one of the most interesting.

Storm Clouds over the Chronicle, 24" X 48" (Click on image to enlarge)

Storm Clouds over the Chronicle, 24" X 48" (Click on image to enlarge)

I started Sunday, March 15 . There was a strong wind and heavy clouds. I got soaked and my easel very nearly blew over into the traffic but I managed to block in an ominous sky.

Monday, I’d just started painting when I caught sight of Joel Selvin striding towards me in a maroon overcoat. Like everyone that I would talk with, Joel was concerned about the future of the paper, but, unlike most, he was not upset about leaving.
“I’m 59 and I have a book deal. So I’m taking a buyout. I started here as a copy boy when I was seventeen. It was so different then. You know, the presses used to be down there.” He pointed to the far end of the building.
“When they started to roll the building would rumble and shake. You felt the building lurch and you knew we were going to press. There were grates over those windows. Hot air would be driven out by the machinery. After work I’d stand on the street below inhaling the smell of the presses.”

Over the next few weeks, as I talked with reporters, columnists, editors, copywriters, and teamsters about the crisis, I had the sensation that I was standing in the eye of a storm. Of course, the Chronicle’s drama was unfolding against the backdrop of collapsing economic institutions, and the huge brouhaha over “retention bonuses” at AIG which added a surreal dimension to this local event.

An insurance agent “between jobs” stopped to chat. Referring to AIG, he volunteered his opinion of management in the insurance industry.
“These guys at the top, four rungs above me, with their Yale and Harvard degrees, all they know how to do is play golf, walk around in expensive suits, and tell you where to eat that’ll cost you $ 300 or more. They couldn’t run a hot dog stand!”
When I asked him about his chances of finding another job. He replied confidently.”Oh I’ll find another job. I know how to talk.”

Chronicle writers and staff were less sanguine. Being in the newspaper business they had a sense of the “big picture” and they could see that that if they took a buyout or were laid off they would probably never have a job like this again. I became aware of a real esprit de corps which in the current circumstances was accompanied by gallows humor: I was told that the joke making the rounds was that the paper must be going under because it was having its portrait painted.

Photo courtesy of Maryly Snow, www.snowstudios.com/artist.htm

Photo courtesy of Maryly Snow, www.snowstudios.com/artist.htm

Kenneth Baker passed by on several occasions. One day he remarked on the ominous clouds in my painting. I told him that they had taken this form almost by accident. That I was pleased with the ‘fissure’ in the clouds falling diagonally towards the silhouetted Chronicle building.
“More like slow lightening.” he replied.

Just about every afternoon, around the time that I put on the clock, the Executive News Editor, Jay Johnson, would stop on his way to work. One afternoon, observing his long face, I asked him how he was doing.
“Not so well. Last night I had to say goodbye to a hundred and twenty employees.”

Friday, March 3, was the last day for many of the 120 who’d opted for buyouts. Steve Rubenstein and a number of other reporters paused to chat with me on their way to a final lunch. Steve posed for a photo next to my painting. An associate told me that Steve was brokenhearted to be leaving, but that staying was too risky.

This last observation was reinforced by a younger reporter, Jonathan Curiel, with whom I had a stimulating conversation about the Middle East and about Robert Fisk whom he had interviewed. I inquired if he had taken a buyout.
“No, but maybe I should have. The paper needs to shed another 30 people. They could fire me next week.”

Shortly after he left, a gentleman stopped whose wife was completing her last day at the paper.
“Who’s going to monitor our local and national government if we lose our newspapers?” He asked, “ It’s newspapers that generate most of the investigative reporting. I don’t think Americans realize what the loss of newspapers will mean for our democracy.”
“A democracy that we barely salvaged in the last elections.” I added.
He nodded grimly and crossed the street to meet his wife at the entrance on Mission.

A lifetime subscriber, who’d overheard him, shared her concern. “ I’m so upset. Every time I receive my paper it’s a little thinner. It’s like watching someone on chemotherapy. I just hope it survives and recovers.”

Those who remain at the Chronicle, and many good people remain, must strive that much harder to reinvent it. To somehow link it effectively into cyberspace while remaining a tangible paper of record. Non profit institution, investigative reporting by subscription, these and many other ideas swirling around probably need to be explored.

Whatever our criticisms of the paper (and Chronicle readers are a diverse and critical bunch) the paper functions as our public square. It is a place. It leaves a permanent record. The mercurial internet is everywhere and nowhere. Words cut into stone in the ancient forum. Words printed on paper today. Ok, so I can print words from the internet and pass them around to my friends. But will they be in news stands on the street, in coffee houses, on breakfast tables all over town? Will they remain as part of the common historical record in ten or twenty years?

Friday, April 10 my last day on the street I spoke for a few minutes with Deputy Editorial Page Editor, Lois Kazakoff. She had no doubts as to the value of the Chronicle. “ It tells our stories.” she declared.

Like it or not, over the years the Chronicle’s reporters, editors, columnists have laid the cobbles or bushwacked the trails that constitute much of the intellectual landscape that we navigate in the Bay Area. We should all work to keep this institution alive.

I am offering a special of $5 Shipping & Handling on all prints on paper. Prints on canvas are also available online. To purchase the original painting please inquire: anthonyholdsworth@yahoo.com

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A Hidden Gem in Oakland: The Dunsmuir-Hellman House

The Dunsmuir-Hellman House, an arrow shot away from the 106th Street exit of 580, is a world removed from Thirteenth and Franklin Streets where I last worked in Oakland. This testament to the Greco-Roman thrust of our westward course of empire stands in splendid isolation in its own 45 acre valley. When the wild turkeys make a racket or the wind blows, they muffle the the low hum of the hidden freeway. At such times observing the duck pond, the thirty-seven room mansion, the subsiding swimming pool, the tiny grotto and the barn strung out along this valley with a stream running through it, observing all this, one can be excused for imagining oneself in another time and place.

The Dunsmuir-Hellman House, Oakland

The Dunsmuir-Hellman House, Oakland

I encounter many interesting people while I paint on the street.  I met Annalee Allen this way, in Oakland, around the time of the Loma Prieta Quake (Nov 1989). I was documenting the quake’s aftermath while she, as president of  the Oakland Heritage Alliance, was working to preserve some of the older historic buildings that had been damaged by the quake.

Recently we’ve been discussing collaborating on a book that would feature my paintings of Oakland accompanied by her historic commentary.  Annalee observed that the Dunsmuir Hellman-House would need to be included.

So I went out and painted it. This seemed a good moment to explore a collaboration. I’m, therefore, turning the rest of this post over to Annalee – my first guest blogger!

ANNALEE ALLEN

The Dunsmuir Hellman House # 2, Oakland

The Dunsmuir Hellman House # 2, Oakland

Until recently, I thought I knew pretty much all the history of the beautiful landmark Dunsmuir House and Gardens located in the Oakland hills, near the San Leandro border. I knew the the hidden valley where the mansion stands was once the property of Ygnacio Peralta, son of Don Luis Peralta, whose 44,000 acre Rancho San Antonio once encompassed all the land of present day Alameda, Oakland, Piedmont, Berkeley, and Albany. I knew that later the valley belonged to a Gilbert Tompkins who maintained a trotting horse breeding farm with stables and a racing track.
And I knew that the early 20th century Broadway stage actress Edna Wallace helped select the architect J. Eugene Freeman to draw up plans for the stately Colonial Revival style residence for her mother Josephine who, after a years long love affair, was finally able to marry her sweetheart Alexander Dunsmuir, the son of a very wealthy Canadian mining magnate. The star crossed lovers were not able to enjoy their hidden retreat for long, I knew, because both passed away within a few short years, leaving the property to Miss Wallace.
Despite her best efforts Edna Wallace could not keep up the large estate and she soon sold it to a banker,  I.W. Hellman, Jr. and his wife who lived across the bay in San Francisco and wanted a secluded estate where they could relax and entertain family and friends.
I have come to know a lot more about the Hellman years, from reading a fascinating new book, “Towers of Gold: How One Jewish Immigrant named Isaias Hellman Created California,” written by Frances Dinkelspiel, Hellman’s great-granddaughter. From her book I came to know how her ancestor immigrated to California in the 1850s from Bavaria, a 16 year old Jewish boy who started out working in a cousin’s stationary store. The author traces the young man’s rise from store clerk to brilliant financier and head of Wells Fargo Bank, and how nearly single handedly, he propelled frontier California into the modern era.
It was the Hellmans who over several decades, beautified and developed the property which they called Southvale Park, calling upon landscape designer John McLaren (of Golden Gate Park fame) to lay out the gardens, swimming pool, tennis courts, and ornamental ponds. The home was lavishly furnished with purchases made when the family traveled to Europe, and according to her book, through the years there were many family weddings, celebrations and gatherings.
In the early 1960s the family sold the property to the city of Oakland, and since the 1970s a dedicated nonprofit group has maintained the estate and offered public tours and other wonderful community events (the upcoming Easter egg roll party on the lawn is one example). Recently the nonprofit’s director, Jim deMersman, formally petitioned the Oakland City Council to change the name, as a way to honor and celebrate the Hellman family’s long association with the Dunsmuir property.
So, if it has been awhile since you last visited, make a date to go up to the Dunsmuir Hellman Historic Estate. Visit www.dunsmuir.org to learn more.
(Written specially for this blog by Annalee Allen.)
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News in the News Pt. 1: Gossip at the Chronicle

Leah Garchik gave me pride of place in her column today, so I thought I’d post a picture courtesy of Jeff, a bicycle messenger/ blogger at www.bluoz.com , who’s been photographing the progress of the painting, on his daily route. It’s been a unique experience to work in front of the Chronicle during this period when the paper is reinventing itself.

Painting In Progress at the Chronicle

Painting In Progress at the Chronicle

After the painting is finished, in about ten days, I will write about some of my experiences here. In the mean time, please subscribe to my RSS feed or add me as a friend on facebook for updates.

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